Bahia

The word Bahia is Portuguese for a bay just north of a safe harbor in the state where europeans discovered Brazil. But the state takes pride in having a history of being the most African in the Brazilian federation. In Bahia, descendents from the first slaves brought to the Americas constitute approximately 80 % of the population. Salvador was also the first capital of colonial Brazil from 1549 to 1763. Bahia is the largest state in northeastern Brazil (nearly the size of Texas) and also the one with the longest coastline in the country. In fact, the coast of Bahia is so long and varied that it has been grouped into five regions: the “coconut palm coast”, “oil palm coast”, “cocoa coast”, “coast of discovery” and “coast of whales”.

Abrolhos

The Abrolhos Archipelago is a Marine National Park located 45 miles off the mid-eastern coast of Brazil. The archipelago of five volcanic islands harbors the greatest chains of coral reefs in the South Atlantic spreading across more than 9 million square yards. The ocean around Abrolhos also covers one of the rarest and most exhuberant coral reef banks in the region. According to scientific knowledge, there is no other place on earth where you can see the type of coral reef pinnacle prevalent in Abrolhos waters, locally known as “chapeirão” [sha-payr-an-o]. The species looks like a giant mutant mushroom and is overgrown with fans of fire coral and round knobs of brain coral also unique to this archipelago.

Abrolhos is also home to some of the richest coral in Brazil, and one of the rarest in the world. All the existing species of fish in the South Atlantic can be found in the surroundings of the archipelago. Between July and November, Abrolhos is visited by Humpback whales, who give their own spectacular performance leaping from the water and emitting a variety of sounds. One of the rarest species of endangered mammals, they measure up to 50 feet and weigh around 30 tons. Abrolhos is the only area in the South Atlantic to which the whales go in order to mate, give birth and escape the Antarctic winters. They are in the archipelago for their entire mating season. The male whales meet the females again and try to attract them by serenading the ladies with all kinds of sweet songs. The Humpbacks are considered to be the most docile of all whale species, and are also known for their highly-developed communication and acrobatics. That makes for a perfect whale-watching-or-hearing opportunity, whether it be while touring on the topside or diving down under. In the interest of preserving the whales privacy and ensuring their annual return, tourists must maintain a distance of 330 feet from the whales.

Charles Darwin was attracted by the rich fauna and paid a research visit to the archipelago in the 1830s. Today, you are allowed to dive in these turquoise blue waters, provided you are in the company of a guide. There are so many spectacular sights in the archipelago’s coast that it is almost impossible to pick the best dives.

Rosalinda wreck (also known as Rosalina)

The Italian cargo ship sank in 1955. It is approximately 330 x 44 feet and its bow reaches up above the water surface at low tide as it is on a higher incline. At the 66 foot bottom, the ship sits on a coral reef bank between two “chapeirão” pinnacles. Today, the ship is completely preserved and integrated into the rich surrounding coral reef ecosystem. There are fish and “chapeirão” everywhere. Rosalinda carried beer and cement. At least, the cement will still be in sight for sure. As you move around the 3 accessible cargo rooms, do not be alarmed if you see a 550 pound jewfish that tends to spend seasons in the machine room. Although it is huge, it does not hurt anybody. Of course, the same is true for the large turtles that also like the area.

How to get there:

There daily flights from São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro to Porto Seguro.
Porto Seguro is 164 miles, approximately 4 hours drive, from Caravelas which is the main port for Abrolhos from the mainland. Caravelas has well equipped hotels, guesthouses, restaurants and travel agencies. You can also reach the archipelago leaving from Nova Viçosa, Alcobaça or Prado on a sailboat or motor boat.

Where to stay:

Abrolhos – Caravelas

Best time of the year for diving:

January to April.

If you want to see the beautiful Humpbacks whales your best bet will be to travel between July and November.

Diving operators:

Abrolhos Embarcações
phone/fax numbers: (55 73)293-2259; (55 73)293-2195 or (55 73) 297-1172
e-mail: abrolhos@portonet.com.br

Abrolhos Sub
phone numbers: (55 73)208-1395; (55 73)9986-0167 or (55 73)9994-4447

Abrolhos Turismo
phone numbers: (55 73) 297-1149 and (55 73)297-1332
fax number: (55 73) 297-1109
e-mail: abrolhosturismo@uol.com.br

Dive tech
phone numbers: (55 73) 297 1666

Horizonte Aberto
phone/fax numbers: ( 55 73) 297 1474
e-mail: abrolhos@horizonteaberto.com.br

Parcel Paradise Abrolhos
phone number: (55 73)297-1433
fax number: (55 73) 297-1352
e-mail: paradiseabrolhos@uol.com.br

Princesa dos Abrolhos
phone/fax number: (55 73)297-1777
e-mail: fale@abrolhosdive.com.br

- If you would like to learn more about Abrolhos, read the following article:

Dive into the turbid waters of Brazil’s Abrolhos Bank to explore the mysteries of its marine biodiversity with a team of leading scientists – Story by Timothy B. Werner published in May 2002 at the UNESCO Courier.